Thursday, October 25, 2007

Portland Shanghai Tunnels

An interesting piece of Portland history is the Shanghai Tunnels. Back in the day of the somewhat lawless West (a century or so ago, give or take a decade or two), Portland was known as a bad place to have too much fun in the rougher parts of town. There was a network of tunnels connecting lots of the businesses downtown to the waterfront, which is a park now, but at the time was the main cargo/shipping part of town. Many less-than-honorable captains would pay less-than-honorable Portlanders to abduct young men and conscript them into duty as sailors until their ships landed somewhere else. You would be drinking for free with some kind stranger and wake up later on a ship already at sea, having been drugged and then hauled through the tunnels to the waiting ship without anyone above being the wiser. There was lots of trade with China, hence the "Shanghai" tunnels.

That's the story anyway.

Turns out it might not be actually totally true per se. Archeology and historical record-searching is apparently not finding much of the evidence promoted by the outfit making money by taking people through what is left of the supposed tunnels.

There is evidence of some tunnels, although the extent of the network seems to be in dispute. Also, the practice of Shanghaiing sailors was widespread, with San Francisco being the most notorious city, but with Portland certainly playing a part. The main dispute however, is whether the tunnels that may or may not have existed had anything to do with the kidnappings. According to the stories, law enforcement was widely corrupt at that time and was involved in the kidnappings, at the very least by being bribed to look the other way. Why then, would anyone worry about the expense of building and maintaining tunnels when you could just as easily pay off the cops and drag a poor sucker down the street? We're only talking about something like four or five blocks in the middle of the night.

The reason for the Shanghai Tunnel dispute is that most of the research and evidence seems to be in the hands of the Cascade Geographic Society, and they are not sharing. Supposedly, they (mainly a "he", but supposedly with some volunteer help) are withholding everything they have until they can finish a book about the tunnels. There is precious little other evidence available beyond "My Grandpa knew a guy..." or "I used to play in the tunnels before the city closed them." The problem is that the best anyone can do is a story about a story, since anyone with firsthand knowledge is long gone. In addition, most of the portions of the city involved have since been renovated, so most of the tunnels that were supposed to have existed are also long gone.

The Cascade Geographic Society is not helped academically by the fact that they seem to want to push the "haunted" aspect of the existing tunnels. It certainly make it seem like they are more interested in guiding tours than conducting research, although since they aren't giving specifics, who knows?

I for one hope they have a trove of evidence and blow this story wide open. The Shanghai Tunnels (or "Portland Underground") are a very popular story around Portland. Definitive proof of the stories would only heighten the importance of what some believe is an integral part of Portland history. But I'm not holding my breath.

No matter what evidence is ever produced one way or the other, this story is certainly not going anywhere anytime soon.

5 comments:

Unknown said...

Hi Dave,

I am interested in where you get your information. Do you believe everything that is printed in the paper? How about calling me and maybe I can set up a private tour for you so you can see it for yourself. Just drop me a note. What do you have to lose? You might have to amend your blog?

Dave said...

I certainly don't believe everything I read in the paper, or any other media for that matter. Strong skepticism is an excellent filter, especially when applied evenly. The problem with this story is that there's not much to work with. Most of my post was based on what's available on-line, which is basically the tour website and several travel sites listing the tours as a fun thing to do in Portland. I found a few other references, but it seems that they all lead back to the Cascade Geographic Society. I admit that with what I assume to be a fairly limited readership, I didn't dig all that deep. I just found the Oregonian article to be interesting since it's the first mention I've seen of the tunnels that wasn't related to the tours.

I took one of the tours a few years ago and although it was interesting, like many large group tours, there seemed to be an emphasis on showmanship and ghost stories, which don't really do it for me. I would have been much more interested in more of the historical and artifactual evidence. The part of the post about hoping this is all true was acurate. Like anyone else, sinister things from my city's past are a draw for me, and I'd love to see them confirmed. I mean, if this type of thing happened, it might as well have been in Portland.

I assume you might be with the Cascade Geographic Society, but I don't really know. If the offer still stands, I'd love a private tour. However, "drop me a note" is a little vague given that I don't know who you are. Any hint?

Unknown said...

Dave,

I am a guide at the Portland underground. There is very little in writing for several reasons. We can discuss them if we get together. Yes, the opportunity is still open. My email is my user name plus earthink.net.

Dennis

Anonymous said...

You know, I have been on the tours and have a grandfather that grew up in Portland. He was born in '12 and left for WWII in 42. He lives in Portland now. We discussed these tunnels quite a bit. He said that while Portland would love for the tunnel stories to be true, as it would be another tourist attraction, it isn't. He said while there may have been some "shanghaiing" going on, it wasn't as prevalent as folks would have the general populace believe today. He said he used to walk all over downtown when going from OHSU back home in North Portland when he couldn't get the car for his dad. What he said he personally saw of the tunnels during some summer jobs was that they were used primarily for transporting goods out of the way of the public and yes, there were some opium dens but those were everywhere.

Unknown said...

I suggest you go to the city council and ask for a document from the late 1800's with the title, something to the effect of, Report on the Abuse of Seamen in Portland. It was a study published by the Portland City Council. It states that they found that 1,500 men disappeared during their study. Also, the tunnel system spanned over 10 square miles. It is possible that the majority were not used to Shanghai. One other thing, the practice of Shanghai was on its way out when your grandfather was growing up. It effectively ended in 1941 with WWII.